Is it possible to repair the steering column switches (or just replace them)?

how-to

(Pollus Fornerod) #1

With the autumn coming up, it would be nice if my window heater switch would function. Right now the window heater jumps on and of at random intervals, which seems to be a regular error due to the exposure to the humid environment in the Twizy.

Also the horn button does not function. The horn itself does BEEP when externally powered, so I assume it is the switch too…

So I have to replace or repair both stalks. The left one for the horn and the right one for the window heater. Since they are not cheap I would prefer to repair them (WD40 does wonders on corroded switches) but is that even possible? Is there a way to open them without destroying them?

Any experiences?

Pollus


(m1n1s) #2

My heated screen was intermittent a few years ago so I traced the wires from the stalk and put a switch across the wires below the steering wheel, my electrics are better than Renault :wink:


(Daniel Reclik) #3

I have the same. there is contact which could be refubrish. No problem


(Pollus Fornerod) #4

Ah, thanks, that’s great. How do I reach the actual contacts? Because the stalks seem to have no removable end caps. Any hints where to start?

My plan is to repair them once and when they fail again, to make my own switches. Lots of empty space on the dash board…


(Toby) #5

I wonder if soaking them in a switch cleaner might be enough?


(Pollus Fornerod) #6

Hmmm… I might wanna try that first… Stupidly enough I sprayed some WD40 into the moving segments of the stalks, without realising that the actual switches are way down at the bottom end… Amazing what you learn googling some pictures.
If it works I’ll let you know! Thanks so far :slight_smile:


(Normsthename) #7

My horn stopped working last year.
The cause was a broken wire on the Left Hand Stalk.
The wire had got brittle over time and was broken by the constant rotation of the stalk turning the lights on and off.
I managed to solder it back on, I had to melt a bit of the housing away to get access to the remaining wire.

Andy


(Daniel Reclik) #8

Hi

You need to disconnect 12v. this is 60A fuse (not 50)

I don’t know if the traction battery must be disconnected to because I built my own battery and it could stay connected

next plese remove airbg…there is a lot of youtube movies…small torx key or any other to put in the small hole in drive wheel for unlock the spring…just pur inside

next remove the wires and remove all drive wheel (mark position before)

remove a controll unit outside car

open it and check the levers…the contact is in the main part…clean it

if you like i can share completly schematics via email


(Pollus Fornerod) #9

Hi Daniel. So you built your own traction battery? That sounds impressive!

On topic, thanks for the instructions. Sounds doable, though I sure will be trembling messing around with the airbag…

I would be glad to receive the electric schematics. I will search for the PM button on this forum to give you my mail address.

Thanks!
Pollus


(Daniel Reclik) #10

Yes
It is 15s90p on Panasonic 18650 cells. higher voltage than original (63 is limit for ies synergy charger) and almost 3 times bigger capacity…Even if i drive on speed way with speed 115 or more (127 is my record) without breaking i have 200+ km range, but weight of the battery is 15kg more than original and is placed only 10mm above the frame on bottom…550A in continous could be reached in 20C deg ambient temperature

of course my own settings in sevcon via dvt customer


(Pollus Fornerod) #11

Wow…that sounds impressive! That opens completely new usage scenario’s for the Twizy. With 200+ km range I could see myself go camping in that thing. Small roads, drive all day, charge overnight and hit the road again the next morning…

But first, I have to repair that horn… Did you receive my PM for the schematics?

Best!
Pollus


(Daniel Reclik) #12

I mist the topics. I think before that you have troubles with heating not horn…

If this is horn i suggest to do something else before:

please take a wire and connect two fuses (there is small metal part on the top of fuse - extension of the fuse legg)

i will send you what exactly number of fuses

I have the same…the horn is connected in the steering column on the left side by red wire…i habe this cable broken but in the same time horn module deads…i remove column 3 times because during wire test horn starts…last time but i try to repair column due to fact that i heard it first time

i have no email. please use “danielreclik(at)poczta.fm”…my email


(Pollus Fornerod) #13

Hi Daniel, sorry I got a bit carried away.

I have problems with the heating AND the horn. So both stalks need servicing.

Thanks again!
Pollus


(Diego Moreno) #14

Hi Pollus,

It is kind of normal (at least in my experience) to have issues with the Renault controls, The only thing that is needed to do is clean them, I have done that in several Renaults in the past and I just did it last week to my Twizy.
I removed the steering wheel and the airbag, then the controls. if you decide to remove the steering wheel and the airbag, you need to disconect the 12V battery before.

Regards,


(Pollus Fornerod) #15

Hi all, thanks for your advice!

I read it, done it, and it worked out fine :slight_smile:

The wire from the horn was broken at the knife edge where it rotates with the lights switch mechanism. I soldered it back on, and wait for it to fail again, in which case I have to do some more invasive surgery to replace the entire wire with a more bendable one, because this movement clearly is not something this sturdy wire can handle. But so far so good.

On the other stalk I cleaned the copper contacts with a small piece of scotch brite soaked in WD40, and now it switches on and off per request. Amazing how happy you can get with something that should work anyway. But that’s the fun of repairing.

So, thanks for all your advice and now, for the first time in about a year, EVERYTHING works on my Twizy!

Kind regards! Pollus